Ulaanbaatar-Beijing: Bogie-changing before midnight

Once on the train again, to cross the last miles towards our destination Beijing, we had time to admire the ever changing beauty of the Mongolian steppe, ranging from wide fields with horses and cattle on them, to mountains, sand hills in the desert, the occasional camel and even antilope at the water holes. Just after a red beaming sunset, we arrived at the Mongolian-Chinese border, where we prepared for a long wait with border procedures and something railway fans get enthusiastic about: The changing of the bogies. Chinas rails were built according to the international standard, while the Mongolian and Russian gauges are slightly wider. To be able to cover the remaining distance to the Chinese capital, the bogies are changed: The whole train (around 17-18 individual compartments) is rolled into a shed, where officials in blue uniforms wait to separate the individual wagons. While the passengers remain on board, pneumatic pumps are inserted into the train’s base, and lift the whole wagon into the air, thus separating the bogie on the base from the wagon itself. All wide bogies are rolled away, and the Chinese ones rolled below the heavy train. Smoothly, the wagon is then lowered onto the bogie again, the wagons connected, and finally, the train is back on track. The whole procedure takes up to six hours – keep in mind that you’re – again – not allowed to use the toilet during this time!

Finally rolling again, the only thing we wanted to do was sleeping. Into the bed and earplugs in – goodnight. How annoying, that in the middle of the night, the wagon attendant and a technician decided to just open our locked door (they have a key for all doors), and, without explaining anything but telling us to shut up and don’t ask, started to drill and rumour in the little motor that could be accessed through our room. But other countries other customs – just don’t expect everything to be as organised as it is back home. I eventually managed to get some hours of sleep, although they repeatedly entered our room again.

Next morning, the intensifying density of the smog outside told of our approach to Beijing. Rolling through fields, mountains and densely populated villages, occasionally with a glimpse of the Great Wall, we got a first impression of China. Of its beauty, but also of the environmental problems that accompany its economic success.

Finally arriving – spot on the minute – at km 0, our destination Beijing, we were surprised by the warm weather. The thermometer showed up to 30°C that day, which was quite a difference to the -20°C we had a couple of days earlier in Mongolia. Our very young guide awaited us at the main entrance of the station, and brought us to our hotel that was located in an old Hutong quarter of the city, very close to the Imperial Palace and the Tiananmen Square.